In Bakhchisaray, the must-see is the Khan’s Palace (“Hansaray”) that dates back to the 1500s. It was the center of the Crimean Khanate (a Muslim Tatar state) and remained a political-cultural-religious hub for the Crimean Tatars until 1944 when Stalin sent the populace into exile. Today the palace is a museum consisting of an extended stand of buildings, gardens, fountains, and minarets.

Bakhchisaray Palace

Bakhchisaray’s Khan’s Palace has been nominated to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage site and is the only extant palace of the Crimean Khanate. The only other two Muslim palaces in Europe are Spain’s Alhambra and Turkey’s Topkapi Palace. Although visitors can enter into the palace’s courtyard for free, a fee is charged to enter the buildings. Visitors can tour on their own or as part of a guided tour (English language tours can be arranged).

Bakhchisaray's Khan's Palace

The Khan’s Palace also has romantic allure. Its Fountain of Tears was made famous by Alexander Pushkin’s poem “The Fountain of Bakhchisaray”. One of the last Tatar rulers, the cruel Qirim Giray Khan, lost his young wife, and in his grief had a marble wall fountain built “so that the rock would weep, like him, forever.” The fountain is adorned with a white and a red rose to honor the two lovers.

There are other gems to find in the medieval winding streets of Bakhchisaray, a sun-drenched town located about an hour south of Simferopol. The town is host to a number of restaurants specializing in Crimean Tatar cuisine.  There is also the USTA Workshop with its traditional Crimean Tatar crafts, most notably pottery and intricate silver jewelry.

Currently being restored is the Madresy, an ancient Muslim school. The grave of Ismael Gasprinky, a beloved Crimean Tatar journalist, poet, and political activist, is also located in Bakhchisaray, and a small museum in his former home is open to the public free of charge.

For visitors willing to do a little uphill walking, a 20-minute trek past the Khan’s Palace is the Uspensky Monastery (a cave-church and Orthodox Christian monastery) that is built into the limestone cliffs.  This is free of charge, but donations are appreciated.

Uspensky Monastery

For the more ambitious visitor, the famous cave-city Chufut Kale is a further 25-minute walk (mostly uphill) from the monastery. Dozens of caves have been dug into a plateau, which affords a great 360-degree view. Former settlers also built fortress-like stone walls, installed a massive gate, and constructed a mausoleum and prayer house. A small entrance fee is charged.

Cave-city Chufut Kale

Cave-city Chufut Kale

Bakhchisaray is a short trip from Simferopol and Sevastopol – go by train, bus, or private car. If arriving by bus or train, grab a marshrutka (mini van) with the sign “?????? ?????” (Old city). It’s a short, inexpensive ride.  The best time to visit is in the spring through the fall. Colorful flowers will be in bloom in the spring and summer, and the fall will be cooler. Be sure to wear comfortable footwear, for you’ll do a lot of walking in beautiful Bakhchisaray.  Also, be sure to have your camera charged and ready for a stimulating photo adventure!

By Cheryl S. Pratt, a Peace Corps Volunteer.  Text and opinions herein are the author’s only and do not reflect in any way the position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.

Before coming to Ukraine I had been vegetarian for five years and anyone who has lived with me can also attest to occasional forays into veganism. I had decided long before coming to Ukraine that I would break my vegetarianism when I moved here. Once my departure was official, I started reintroducing meat into my diet. My roommates from this time can tell you that me trying to learn how to cook meat was usually the entertainment of the night.

I personally decided to start eating meat again for one main reason: I didn’t want to be seen as rude or difficult. If you are planning on moving to Ukraine and are vegetarian I would highly recommend considering your options. If you are planing on just visiting Ukraine and maintaining your vegetarianism here are some tips:

• Study your food words in Ukrainian and Russian
• Your soup will be meat-broth based, except this and move on.
• The breakfast of champions is a Snickers and bag of chips
• Your options in winter are going to be fewer then your options in summer
• Expect meat to pop up in places you wouldn’t think it would be
• ?????? (potato pancakes) is usually a safe bet.

For my carnivores I have advice for you too. My top three favorite foods that include meat in Ukraine:

• ????? (borscht) – If Ukraine had a national food it would be borscht. If you visit Ukraine and don’t have borscht at least once I would have to say you didn’t really experience Ukraine. Every restaurant, even the Italian ones, have borscht on the menu. Excellent with a side of ???????? (papmpushkas), fluffy garlic rolls.
• ??????? (holypsi) – Cabbage rolls stuffed with rice, onion, and ground-up meat simmered in a pot of tomato broth. These are the first Ukrainian food that I will make for my friends and family back in the states.
• ??????? (shashleek) – The Ukrainian version of barbeque. Juicy chunks of pork slow cooked over charcoal. A dish that defiantly calls for a cold beer or a few shots of vodka.

Being a vegetarian in Ukraine is not impossible. I know many Americans who live here and have maintained a vegetarian diet. I also know a small handful of Ukrainians who are vegetarian. I remember one conversation with a Ukrainian where she told me she is the only vegetarian in her family and is viewed as an anomaly. The way I see it is this: there is a Ukrainian word for vegetarian so people here are aware of the concept but will still give you a hard time when you tell your food preference. You should see the looks I get when I explain veganism.

Julia Grebenstein is a Peace Corps Youth Development Volunteer working in Central Ukraine. To read more about her experiences in Ukraine, follow her blog at http://jgrebenstein.wordpress.com/.

I’m sitting in the backseat of a small compact car trying to gain my bearings as the rain comes pouring down in faster and harder gushes. The radio station begins to play a mediocre 90’s song barely heard above the rain pounding on the roof. The decade old American pop hit offers a bizarre backdrop of English to the Russian being exchanged in the front seats and the ridiculous amounts of water, potholes, and unruly traffic that we weave in between.  To my right I see we are driving a long a wide river and to my left I can make out buildings no higher than six or seven stories, a plethora of flashy advertisements, and massive, identical apartment buildings only distinguished by their varying shades of crumbling pastel yellows and blues. As I try to shake off my exhaustion and involuntarily closing eyes, I think, Welcome to Ukraine Faith!

My first car ride to my host family’s apartment captures a bit of how I felt during my Eastern European adventure… a unknown, wild ride. Working as a counselor for a Jewish camp in Dnipropetrosvk, Ukraine was the job description but what I ended up experiencing kind of felt like living a summer novel. My host family provided large, expressive characters that I got to know mostly through miming, translating, and smiling. My host mother, her 9-year-old daughter, my host mother’s parents, brothers, and the brother’s girlfriend. They spoke virtually no English but took a great interest in learning about America- engrossed in looking at my passport, asking me about “American business men,” and the cost of random items. They treated me like a queen on my birthday (a tiara, balloons, and cake!) and worked hard to finally find food I would eat since I declined their most generous gifts of pork, ham, and cheese. (By the way, since it’s very hot in Ukraine, imagine them all in their underwear most of the time.) The apartment was small, but clean and organized and definitely “a home.” The building on the other hand was built at least forty years ago. There was trash strewn everywhere, windows broken, and some walls completely bare of paint. It struck me that a sense of communal space was totally lost on its inhabitants.

Much of the city that I would come to see over the next weeks would also contain old, abandoned buildings, covered in trash- only to be found right next to a new modern looking apartment building or shopping complex. Nobody seemed to mind.

The other characters in this strange novel were my five fellow counselors, two girls and three boys, from various universities around the US, our respective host families, our school “family” of children (1^st-4^th grade), teachers and administrators, and the Jewish community.

Over the next three weeks we worked at the school from 9am – 4pm, assisting the ESL teachers, teaching English through games, arts&crafts, field trips, dance, and sports. Knowing no Russian ourselves, it was often frustrating and confusing to know if the kids were gaining much from our being there. As the kids became more comfortable around us and we around them, we realized that our presence was at least exposing them to non-celebrity status Americans that they seem to idealize on TV. We also hoped that immersing them in English would help them feel more comfortable being around English in general. A new dear friend and Jewish leader of the community referred to us as “angels” for teaching English to his children; a gift that would help them advance their jobs and income later in their lives.  What struck me was how deeply this community believed in what we were there to do. Their sense of immense appreciation clung to their sincere and humble words and eagerness to assist us in any way possible. Over the next weeks we were welcome into more than a half dozen homes for Shabbat meals, lunches, and even my 22^nd birthday party one week after we arrived.

In these homes we learned about the history of the city and life in Ukraine in general and for Jews specifically. We heard stories of pre-soviet union restriction and despair and how the only things Jews seemed to know about “being Jewish” was “Matzah” and the “problem” that it seemed to be for everyone else. I met Jews who homed crucifixes in their apartments out of what seemed a cultural Ukrainian habit and although they do not consider themselves Jewish by practice, send their children to the Jewish school because “at least it is safe and doesn’t have drugs.” We learned of the numerous Jewish projects and quickly understood the amount of energy, money, focus, and momentum the leadership appears to have in empowering and growing their community. We learned that thousands of Jews are still finding out that they are Jewish, and even more still do not know. I walked along the main commercial road, Karl Marx, acutely aware of the irony in that, and crossed the intersection of Karl Marx and Lenin with my mind churning through old history lessons. I also tried a few Russian delicacies, almost all including some form of potatoes, and learned a few phrases of Russian. I have yet to learn a word of Ukrainian, as it is not spoken in this city of mostly Russian immigrants.

I made some wonderful friends in my co-counselors and felt a sense of deep connection with the Dnipropetrovsk community. Their warmth, honesty, generosity, and love of life, freedom, and their families reaffirmed my deep belief that we really aren’t as different as our history books and politicians might lead us to believe.

This post was submitted by Faith Brigham who participated in JCRC’s Boston English Immersion Camp in Dnipropetrovsk in the Summer of 2010.

Sometimes its hard to find good information about traveling in Eastern Ukraine. However, that is not to say there isn’t anything to write about. And don’t forget that half of the Euro 2012 games will be played in Easter Ukraine! The site below offers good information on Donetsk, one of the larger cities in the East, and the location of a brand-new soccer stadium for Euro 2012. Check it out!

http://www.directlytravel.com/donetsk-city-ukraine.html

By Scotty Colson
I was in Krasnodon as part of the Community Partner’s program.
Birmingham and Krasnodon were matched up.  Krasnodon is in the far east
of the country right on the border with Russia separated only by the
Donets (sp) river.   The city officials were taking us to a factory they
wanted to someday re-open and to get investment for.  The road up to the
factory was nice until we got a half mile from the factory and then the
road became an almost impassable trail.   After this bumpy ride I got
out of the car and asked; “Hey what happened to the road”.  I was
informed by the Chief of Police who was with us “Road Stolen.”   I did
not think I heard him right so I asked for a translations.  Sure enough
the road had been stolen!  The road was made of slabs of concrete and
someone had stolen about half a mile of concrete slabs.  I asked the
Chief how you report a stolen road.  Without missing a beat he said; “On
the incident report you give the address as the street formerly located
at…”
When we went into the factory it had been closed for about 8 years.  It
had been a word working factory.  All the old banners exhorting the
workers to strive for victory in the class struggle against the
imperialist capitalists were still hanging.   Everything was left just
like people had put their tools down and walked away.   Every surface
was covered in about an inch of dust.  Except one room.  This room had a
large generator.  It was perfectly clean and shiny and looked like it
was ready to fire up.   Next door was an office with a bed and furniture
and small stove.  The office was apparently a home now.  Outside the
window was a nice garden with chickens and goats and vegetables growing.
The lady living in the office came in to see what were doing there.  She
was thrilled to see people visiting the factory.  When the factory was
in operation she was in charge of the generator I mentioned earlier.
Since the factory had closed she had not been able to get other work and
had lost her home.  She moved into the factory 6 years before and made
her a home there and every day she cleaned the old generator in hopes
someone would come back and open the factory and give her back her old
job.  We went away from this factory realizing that patience is a virtue
that can be overdone.

For the beauty of Ukraine I paused,

I paused to contemplate.

I contemplate the land and its changing contours.

I think about the changes this land has seen and the changes it has endured.

But the land remains.

It remains ever present, ever enduring.

I contemplate the Ukrainian culture and all its diversity,

a diversity that I can never totally experience nor understand.

But I enjoy all those cultural aspects that I am blessed to receive.

For the culture endures.

It remains as a rock,

a solid foundation for Ukrainian people.

I contemplate a history that is both sad and inspiring.

Ukraine has seen its share of history;

Ukraine has been history.

Its history has defined it;

Its history has shaped it;

Its history has changed it.

But Ukraine endures.

Its history is indeed before it.

The past is merely prologue.

The enduring spirit of Ukraine demands as much.

I contemplate the character of Ukraine’s people.

God indeed must have decided to put the best of women in Ukraine.

The Ukrainian woman’s beauty is unsurpassed;

Her heart is exceedingly warm and exceptionally strong;

Her smile is a bright spring day;

Her intellect is Ukraine’s hidden strength.

Ukrainian men have been granted a country of beautiful women as a gift from God.

But God has exacted a heavy price from Ukrainian men.

Ukrainian men have died in tragic numbers and in tragic ways.

Yet, they are true patriots.

They are brave;

They are consummate hosts;

They endure.

They are many of my best friends.

I know that no better friend could any one man have but a Ukrainian.

I contemplate where Ukraine is going.

It matters not what I think however.

It only matters what Ukraine does.

But, Ukraine has history;

It has culture;

It has the land;

But, most importantly, it has its people.

I have seen its beautiful and irrefutably strong women;

I can call many of its men my friends.

I know Ukraine will endure.

It will do nothing less.

Rusty Brooks

October 2001

In most of the former Soviet Union, May 9 still marks Victory Day, a holiday commemorating the capitulation of the Nazis to the Soviet Union in World War II.  Since the fall of the USSR, this holiday has been adapted to align symbolically with new national holidays in many of the former Soviet republics.  In Lutsk, a town of about 206,000* people in Volynska Oblast in western Ukraine, Victory Day both venerates the city’s triumph over the Fascist occupation in World War II and celebrates the country’s independent status. The following photos portray how a Ukrainian nationalist part of the country honors Victory Day.

*Population statistic taken from (http://www.lutsk.ua/english/modern_city.html)

These photos were taken by Derek Hom, a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer who served in Lutsk, Ukraine, from 2007 to 2009.  He is currently a MA candidate at the University of Washington’s Jackson School of International Studies in the Center for Russian, East European, and Central Asian Studies.  Derek is studying Post-Soviet security affairs focusing on Ukrainian affairs and Black Sea Security.  This summer, Derek will study Russian language in Odessa, Ukraine, through a Foreign Language Area Studies (FLAS) award.

This photo journal is also featured in the Spring/Summer 2010 REECAS Newsletter published by the University of Washington’s Jackson School of International Studies, Ellison Center for Russian, East European, and Central Asian Studies (http://depts.washington.edu/jsishelp/ellison/)

On April 26, 1986 the city of Chornobyl, Ukraine was transformed.  Chornobyl became infamous as the most serious nuclear disaster in history.  Due to both mechanical and human errors in the an uncontrollable surge of energy occur when a test was run on one of the reactors and caused several eruptions which relased  radioactive material into the envrionment and created a radiation cloud that spread over a large part of Europe.

43 people died as a direct result of the disaster and hundreds of thousands more were exposed to unhealthy levels of radiation.  Thyroid cancer has become infinitely more prevalent in the area and much of the plant and animal populations in the immediate area were adversely affected.

Today the atmospheric radiation around the Chornobyl Site has returned to the levels before the meltdown. The site has also been the destination for eco-tours as well as general curiosity. It can be an expensive trip, but clearly an interesting and important historical event to explore.

Watch here to see what its like:

http://www.rferl.org/video/7045.html

The environmental impact of the disaster remains and life of any form in the area will never be the same. Every year in Ukraine schools all over the country hold conferences to educate students on the tragic history of this nuclear facility.

For more information please visit:

U.N. Report

You might know them as pirogi, or dumplings, but I know these delicious bites as Varennyky! Varrenyky are a dish that any traveler in Ukraine needs to try. They are dumplings that are filled with a variety of things.  The most common fillings are potatoes, farmers cheese (similiar to cottage cheese), and meat, but it is not hard to find ones filled with mushrooms, cabbage, or fruit (usually served for dessert).

The Varennyky dough is cut into circles, filled, and then closed into a half-moon shape. Sometimes they are sauteed with salo (bacon bits) or with a mushroom sauce, and then served with sour cream.  If they are of the fruit variety they can be sprinkled with sugar. They are delicious!

To find the best Varrennyky I suggest you find your nearest babusya, but if you can’t make it to Ukraine today you can try making your own!

Heres a great recipe!  http://www.shesimmers.com/2010/04/best-vareniki-dough-recipe-from-valya.html

I arrived in the south of Odessa oblast,  the town of Kiliya,  in the late summer. The trees were vibrantly yellow; the sky brilliant blue…  the colors of the Ukrainian flag reflected in autumnal views. I strolled down tree-lined streets, and greeted new neighbors and town-mates. Here people saunter, smile, chat, push babies in strollers and make small shop purchases. Bushes and trees take over the sidewalks, and there are flowers in all the yards, gardens, and parks. This is a pleasant place to live.

My first impression of Kiliya was very positive, and has remained so through these past months of my life here. The town is comfortable in its own skin —usually quiet, relaxed,  easy to traverse.  As I got settled into my flat, found my way around the town’s shops and streets, and met new people, I was very favorable impressed with the friendliness of this town, and the willingness of people to help me learn about it. I visited the bazaar, the museum, the library, the remains of the old fortress and bell tower, and the churches. There have been visits to the neighboring towns of Vilkova and Izmail.  All of these sites have been interesting and pleasantly surprising: I had no idea of the historic nature of this region of the Danube, and the dramatic events of the past. There have been many struggles between countries and empires, yet people of a dozen or more ethnic groups live side by side here in what was once called  “Bessarabia”.  I have learned that Kiliya is on the list of the ten oldest towns in Ukraine…. 2700 years of history is claimed by this pleasant place, dating from the trade routes of the Greeks and Romans.

This place is ripe for more tourism, especially for those who want someplace out of the way, pleasant and relaxing, but interesting.  The town is about 200 km south of Odessa so it is a bit of a jaunt to get here – but once you are here, there is a feeling that I can only liken to an experience from my home in Hawaii. Of the millions who visit Maui, several a certain percentage of people will make a long, winding 3- or 4-hour drive to the tiny village of Hana in a remote corner of the island.  Sometimes it is the journey itself that attracts the visitor, or the novelty of the remote. And sometimes it is the quiet satisfaction and charm of Hana that captures their souls.    Perhaps Kiliya is Ukraine’s Hana. It takes a couple-few hours to get here, but the trip is well worth it!

Welcome, visitors: come and discover the charms of Kiliya, as I have!

Barbara Trecker, Peace Corps Volunteer, Ukraine

Kiliya Travel Brochure